bak budidaya ikan lele

bak budidaya ikan lele

bak pemijahan ikan lele terbuat dari tembok. Ikan lele bisa hidup pada kondisi air yang kurang baik, meskipun pada air yang tergenang / tidak mengalir ikan lele ini dapat hidup asal diberi pakan yang cukup. Ikan lele dapat hidup pada kondisi oksigen yang kurang karena ikan mempunyai alat pernapasan tambahan labirin, yang dapat mengambil oksigen langsung ke permukaan air kolam.
Dengan demikian ikan lele merupakan salah satu jenis ikan yang mudah dibudidayakan baik di lingkungan pedesaan dan perkotaan. Bagi orang yang tidak mempunyai lahan yang luas untuk memelihara ikan, maka memelihara ikan lele merupakan suatu pilihan yang tepat untuk dijadikan ikan peliharaan di pekarangan rumah, sebagai upaya untuk meningkatkan giji masyarakat dan menambah pendapatan keluarga.


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Maintaining Oxygen Levels in Fish and KOI Ponds

Maintaining Oxygen Levels in Fish and KOI Ponds
by: Brett Fogle


Severe environmental stressors are the most frequent causes of sudden fish death in garden ponds or other fish habitats, and the lack of oxygen in the water is the number 1 stressor of all.

Two major factors contributing to fish-pond oxygen loss concern blooming algae. During daylight hours, algae make oxygen; during the night,however, the plants take oxygen. If algae are profusely blooming, the plants deplete all the pond’s oxygen during the night, which in turn, causes fish inhabiting the pond to die.

Another way that algae trigger oxygen loss is by dying suddenly. Algae-bloom death occurs naturally or from chemical treatment of an algaecide. When algae die suddenly – from either cause – the oxygen becomes quickly depleted because the algae no longer are alive and making it.

Then, when dead algae begin to decompose, the decaying process even further depletes oxygen. Fish have been observed gulping for oxygen at the water’s surface in sixty minutes or less from the onset of sudden algae death.

In ponds stocked liberally with many fish, often the oxygen level is just adequate enough to sustain them. If any further claim on the existing oxygen is made, this delicate environmental balance will be upset. When no or inadequate aeration is provided, along with rising warm-weather water temperatures, the conditions for fish survival become critical.

As water warms, its oxygen-retaining capacity decreases. Consequently, small fountains, waterfalls, or other water-aerating devices are incapable of providing adequate oxygen for fish. Additional oxygen should be introduced through brisk aeration when fighting algae, most importantly when water temperatures surpass eighty degrees Fahrenheit.

Testing devices are the only sure method to accurately read oxygen levels. Because these devices are not usually on hand for the average person maintaining a water garden or fish pond, the easiest way to ensure sufficient oxygen levels is to provide generous and continual aeration. Pumps and diffusers that “bubble” air into the water or large waterfalls, fountains, and other “splashing” water devices are common ways to get sufficient oxygen into the pond. When the weather is warm, or if an algae problem exists, it is imperative that supplemental aeration be provided constantly, throughout the day and night.

One other algae-caused loss of fish has gained attention and is being studied in areas around the world. These fish-killing algal varieties contain potent toxins that trigger sudden fish death. If a pond hosts these particularly virulent algae, devastating fish loss can result, seemingly more so when a quick die-off of algal bloom occurs. The blooms discharge their toxins concurrently, and some or all fish in the pond are adversely affected or killed. Fortunately, since pond owners are unable to identify these algae, this danger is rare.

Keep your oxygen levels under control at all times and you will greatly increase your the lifespan of your fish.

To read the full article, click here:
http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/Newsletters/July2004/Oxygen-Depletion.shtml

About The Author

Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several pond-related websites including macarthurwatergardens.com and pond-filters-online.com. He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over 9,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive a complimentary 'New Pond Owners Guide' for joining, just visit MacArthur Water Gardens at www.macarthurwatergardens.com.
brett@macarthurwatergardens.com

How to Choose Water Garden Plants

How to Choose Water Garden Plants
by: Brett Fogle


So the water garden bug has bitten. You’ve dug and leveled and sweated and said words you hope that no one else has heard. Now it’s time for the fun part – picking out your water garden plants!

Plant varieties within these four categories are what you need to eyeball: deep-water, marginals, oxygenators, and floaters. (If you think these words are big words, just be happy we’re not talking about medicine.)

After you’ve diligently planted your new plants in plastic tubs, pans, or clay pots, packing the fertilizer- and chemical-free soil down tightly, load the container down with pea gravel to keep the soil from floating away. (Don’t ask why this works, but it does.) Plunk your plant into the water at the appropriate depth (You’ll read about that in just a minute) and you’re on ready to go!

Plant-dunking should be generally be done during the growing season. For new ponds, wait four or five weeks for the water plants to do their thing before you add your fish. If you just can’t hold your horses, or your fish, for that long, you can jump the gun a couple of weeks, but the idea is to let the plants first get established.

When picking your plants, you’ll no doubt be wowed by water lilies of the tropical persuasion. These aquatic wonders are popular compared to their hardier cousins with knock-out fragrance, big blooms day or night – depending on the variety – and a habit of blooming their little hearts out nearly every day during the growing season. They love their warmth, though, so unless you live in a year-round, warm-weather climate, be prepared to hasten them into a greenhouse or at least muster up some funds to buy them some “grow” lights to tough it out through the winter.

They will definitely bite the dust at freezing temperatures, but give them night-time temps of at least 65F and daytime temps of 75F or warmer, and your love affair with tropicals will only grow that much more torrid.

Hardy water lilies, while not the showboaters that tropicals are, are . . . well, hardier. Their big advantage is that they can stay in the water year ‘round unless it freezes so deeply the rootstock is affected. And being the tough guys they are, you can plant these puppies deeper than the tropicals, some living it up in depths of 8 to 10 feet.

Both hardy and tropical water lilies are real sun worshippers. At least 5 to 10 hours a day is what it takes, along with regular fertilization, to keep these plant pals happy.

Everybody and their brother with a water garden wants a lotus plant. (Sisters, too, no doubt.) These water-lily relatives come in hardy and not-so-hardy strains, so make sure you know what you’re buying. Much bigger than water lilies, lotus have huge, famously splendid blooms that not only will knock your socks off, but make you forget you have feet altogether. Their leaves and seed pods are so breathtaking, they’re a favorite in costly cut-flower arrangements. Big, bold, and beautiful, with water-depth needs of 2-3 feet, these shouters are really better off in big ponds that get plenty of sun.

Marginals (sometimes called “bog” plants by those less high-falutin’) are grass-like plants that strut their stuff in shallow areas no deeper than 6” that border the water garden. They also do well in mud. Cattail, bamboo, rush, papyrus, and many other plants fall into the family of marginals and grow best with a minimum of at least three hours of sun.

Some plants are there but not seen, working stoically under water and without fanfare to fight algae, oxygenate the water, and provide food for fish. (In lieu of these plants, if your pond is small, you can fake it fairly adequately with an aquarium pump.) Easy on the wallet, varieties of these plants can be bought in bunches and like their soil sandy and/or gravelly. Like hardy water lilies, they, too, will warrior it through the winter.

Water hyacinths have become a recent rage, especially for the lazy among us. No soil is required for these beauties. Toss them in the water and they’re “planted.” A water hyacinth ain’t just another pretty face, though; these plants do their part in the war against algae and blanket weeds by keeping sunlight scarce on the water’s surface. But one note of caution: This plant may take over the world if allowed. It’s invasive as all get out, so keep it under control or you (and your neighbors) may wish you’d never laid eyes on it.

A water garden isn't a garden without plants. Take your time, know your climate, and choose wisely. Your rewards will be great in return.

To read the full article, click here:
http://www.macarthurwatergardens.com/Newsletters/July2004/pond-plant-selection.shtml

About The Author

Brett Fogle is the owner of MacArthur Water Gardens and several pond-related websites including macarthurwatergardens.com and pond-filters-online.com. He also publishes a free monthly newsletter called PondStuff! with a reader circulation of over 9,000 pond owners. To sign up for the free newsletter and receive a complimentary 'New Pond Owners Guide' for joining, just visit MacArthur Water Gardens at www.macarthurwatergardens.com.
brett@macarthurwatergardens.com